How to Care for Taxidermy: Light, Humidity, Dust and Pests

A well-made mount kept in reasonable conditions lasts centuries — the Victorian pieces still circulating in the trade are proof. A neglected one deteriorates within a decade, and most of that damage is irreversible.

The good news is that taxidermy care is almost entirely preventive. Get four environmental factors right and you will rarely need to do anything else.

The four things that cause damage

Almost every problem traces back to one of these:

Light fades pigments permanently. UV is the worst offender, but strong visible light also does cumulative damage.

Humidity swings are more damaging than any particular humidity level. Skin, hide and mounting materials expand and contract at different rates, and repeated cycling opens seams and cracks.

Dust is abrasive, holds moisture against the surface, and — critically — provides food and cover for insects.

Insects are what actually destroys collections. Museum beetles and clothes moths eat hair, feather and skin, and by the time damage is visible the infestation is well established.

Everything below follows from those four.

Light

Keep taxidermy out of direct sunlight, without exception. A mount in a sunny window will show visible fading within a couple of years, and the fading cannot be reversed.

Practical measures:

• Position away from south-facing windows — or west-facing, which delivers the harshest afternoon light.
• UV-filtering film on glazing if the room is bright and repositioning is not possible. It is inexpensive and effective.
• Keep display lighting modest. LED sources emit very little UV, which is a real advantage over halogen, but they still contribute to cumulative light damage at high intensity.
• Rotate the piece occasionally if it sits where one side always faces the light. This at least keeps the fading even.

Butterflies and brightly coloured birds are the most vulnerable; dark fur and antler are more tolerant but not immune. This is why the dome and bell jar guide treats sunlight as an absolute rule rather than a preference.

Temperature and humidity

Aim for 45–55% relative humidity and a stable room temperature. Stability matters more than hitting an exact number.

What to avoid:

• Above radiators or heating vents. Direct dry heat cracks hide and skin and loosens seams.
• Bathrooms, kitchens and unheated outbuildings. High or fluctuating humidity encourages mould and attracts insects.
• Exterior walls in older buildings, which can be persistently damp behind the surface.
• Lofts and cellars. Both cycle hard between extremes, and both are where infestations usually begin.

A cheap hygrometer in the room tells you more than any amount of guesswork. If you see readings regularly below 35% or above 65%, address it before it becomes a conservation problem.

Routine dusting

Dust every one to three months, depending on the room. This is the single most valuable thing you can do, because it also functions as an inspection.

For fur and feather: a soft, dry brush — a clean, natural-bristle paintbrush is ideal. Always work in the direction the hair or feather lies, never against it. Support the piece with your other hand so you are not putting pressure through the mount.

For antler and bone: a dry brush, and nothing else. See the antler lighting guide for fixture-specific advice.

For glass domes and cases: a barely damp microfibre cloth on the outside only, dried immediately. Never spray liquid at a case.

Vacuuming can be done, but only with a soft brush attachment, at the lowest suction, and with a piece of gauze over the nozzle to catch anything that detaches. If you are not confident, use a brush instead.

What never to use

• Water on fur, feather or skin. It swells the skin and can lift hair permanently.
• Household cleaners, solvents, polish or oil. These stain, strip and attract dust.
• Hair dryers or heat. They dry and crack the mounting.
• Compressed air at close range. It drives dust deeper and can strip feather barbs.

If a piece needs more than dusting, it needs a conservator.

Insects: detection and response

This is the part that matters most, because insect damage is the main cause of loss and it is nearly silent.

What to look for, monthly:

• Fine powder or “frass” beneath the mount — the clearest early sign
• Small bare patches where hair or feather has been grazed away
• Loose hair collecting on the surface below
• Small beetles or larvae, or shed larval skins, on or near the piece
• Irregular holes in the hide

If you find any of it, act immediately.

1. Isolate the piece. Move it away from other mounts, textiles and wool. Infestations spread.
2. Bag it sealed in heavy polythene.
3. Freeze it. This is the standard conservation treatment: −18 °C or colder for at least 72 hours, ideally two weeks, then allow it to return to room temperature inside the sealed bag to prevent condensation forming on the piece.
4. Clean thoroughly afterwards and vacuum the surrounding area, including skirting boards and carpet edges.
5. Re-inspect at two weeks and again at a month to confirm the infestation is gone.

Very large mounts cannot be frozen domestically and will need professional treatment.

Prevention is straightforward: dust regularly, keep humidity moderate, avoid storing pieces in lofts or cellars, and check anything new before it joins the rest — quarantine a newly bought piece for a few weeks if you have a collection worth protecting.

Handling and moving

Always carry a mount by its base or backboard, never by the head, antlers, legs or beak. Antlers in particular feel structurally sound and are frequently the weakest joint on the piece.

Wear clean cotton or nitrile gloves where you can. Skin oils mark hide and bone over time, and older pieces may carry residues from historical preservatives — arsenic and mercury compounds were both used well into the twentieth century. This is not a reason for alarm with normal display, but it is a good reason to wash your hands after handling antique material, and to avoid letting children handle it directly.

When moving house, transport mounts upright, supported at the base, and never stacked or laid face down.

Hides and rugs

Hides and cowhides live differently from mounts because they get walked on.

Shake them out or vacuum lightly on the hair side. Never machine wash, never dry clean, and never soak. For a spill, blot immediately with a dry cloth working from the outside inward, and let it air dry away from heat — never with a hairdryer.

Rotate the hide occasionally so wear and fading distribute evenly, and lift it periodically to check the underside for insect activity, which is where infestations start.

What needs a professional

Call a conservator or experienced taxidermist for:

• Active infestation in a large or valuable piece
• Structural damage — split seams, detached limbs, a loose mount on its backboard
• Mould, which requires treatment rather than cleaning
• Serious accumulated grime on a valuable specimen
• Any restoration on an antique piece with documented provenance

Amateur repair reduces value on good pieces far more often than it saves them. If the piece has a certificate or documented history, keep both with it — as covered in buying taxidermy legally and ethically, that documentation is part of the object’s worth.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I really dust? Every one to three months. Monthly if the room is dusty or the piece is open rather than cased.

Can I use a hairdryer on a cool setting? No. Airflow drives dust into the fur and the heat dries the hide.

My mount has a musty smell. What does that mean? Usually damp, mould or active insects. Isolate it and investigate before displaying it further.

Is old taxidermy dangerous because of arsenic? Historical preservatives were used, but intact mounts on display present minimal risk. Wash your hands after handling, do not let children handle antique pieces, and mention it to any conservator you engage.

Can faded colours be restored? Not genuinely. Fading is permanent, which is why light control matters more than any other single measure.

For placing and displaying pieces well, see taxidermy in interior design, or contact us with a photograph if you are unsure about the condition of something you own.